JPG to TIFF Converter

Add your JPG photos to the box above, choose one TIFF per picture or one multi-page file, and press the button. Each photo is turned into a real TIFF file in a moment, ready to download on its own or, when there are several, together in one ZIP.

The conversion happens in your browser with our own TIFF writer, so your pictures are not uploaded anywhere. You can add up to 300 pictures at once, each up to 100 MB, and PNG, WebP, GIF, BMP and AVIF pictures work as well as JPG.

JPG is the format of almost every phone and camera photo. It is small because it throws away fine detail the eye rarely misses, and it does so again each time a JPG is edited and saved. TIFF is a different kind of format: it stores every pixel exactly, it can hold many pages in one file, and it carries the print resolution inside the file.

That is why print shops, publishers, picture libraries, archives, document systems and some government and legal portals still ask for TIFF. A TIFF looks the same in every program that opens it, and once you have it, you can edit and save it as often as you like without the picture getting any worse.

Turning a JPG into TIFF is the usual way to meet such a request. You keep the JPG for sharing and hand the TIFF to whoever asked for it. When you need to go back, TIFF to JPG makes a small JPG again, and TIFF to PDF puts TIFF pages into a PDF.

TIFF, short for Tagged Image File Format, was created in the 1980s for scanners and desktop publishing and has been a standard for print, publishing and archiving ever since. A TIFF file is built from tags: small labelled fields that describe the picture, such as its width and height, the colour mode, the compression and the resolution in DPI.

That design makes TIFF very flexible. One file can hold a single photo or hundreds of pages, in colour, grey or pure black and white, packed in several lossless ways. The files made here are baseline TIFF files, the plain and widely supported kind, so that scanners, printers, document systems and old software can read them as easily as modern image editors.

Both .tif and .tiff are names for the same format. The files from this page end in .tiff; if a system asks for .tif, simply rename the file, nothing inside it needs to change.

This JPG to TIFF converter free of charge has no sign-up, no watermark, no daily limit and no trial that runs out. You do not need to install anything or create an account, and you can convert as many batches as you like, one after another.

Because the work is done by your own device rather than a paid server, there is nothing to pay for and nothing to wait for in a queue. A batch of a few dozen photos usually finishes in seconds on a modern computer, a little longer on an older phone.

Many people ask for JPG to TIFF high quality conversion and expect the TIFF to look better than the JPG. It is worth being clear: converting cannot bring back detail that JPG compression already removed. The blocky edges, smeared colours or soft areas a heavily compressed JPG may have will still be there in the TIFF.

What the conversion does guarantee is that nothing more is lost. The TIFF is an exact, lossless copy of the pixels of your JPG, whichever compression you choose here: LZW, ZIP, PackBits or none. From then on you can edit, crop and save the TIFF again and again, and it stays exactly as good as it was.

So high quality here means no further loss, not added detail. For the sharpest result start from the original photo from the camera or phone, not a copy that was sent through a messaging app or downloaded from social media, because those copies have usually been made smaller and compressed again.

The TIFF can only be as good as the JPG you start from. Photos sent through messaging apps, shared on social networks or saved from web pages are usually made smaller and compressed again on the way, sometimes to a fraction of the original size.

So before converting, find the original: the photo in your phone's camera roll, the file from the camera's memory card, or the full-size download from a cloud photo service. Compare the pixel size; the original usually has the largest width and height, and that is the one to convert.

One good reason to convert a JPG into TIFF is editing. Each time a JPG is opened, changed and saved as JPG again, it is compressed again and loses a little more detail. After several rounds, edges and smooth colours start to show it.

Convert once to TIFF, do all your editing on the TIFF, and save it as often as you like: nothing is lost. When the work is finished, make a JPG copy from the TIFF for sharing with TIFF to JPG, and keep the TIFF as your master.

TIFF can store its pixels in several ways, and this tool offers four. All four are lossless: they keep every pixel exactly, so the choice only changes the file size and which programs can open the file. The image itself looks the same with each of them.

LZW is the default and the safe choice. A JPG to TIFF LZW file opens in practically every program that reads TIFF, from Windows Photos and macOS Preview to Photoshop, GIMP, layout programs, scanners and document systems. ZIP, also called Deflate, is usually a little smaller still and is read by most modern programs. PackBits is very simple and works well for black and white pages, and None writes the raw pixels for old machines and some print systems that ask for it.

Under More options you will find the horizontal predictor, which is on by default. Instead of storing each pixel as it is, the predictor stores the difference from the pixel to its left. In photos neighbouring pixels are usually similar, so the differences are small numbers that LZW and ZIP pack far more tightly. A photo saved with the predictor is often a third or more smaller than without it, still with every pixel exact.

Leave it on unless a program or a print shop tells you it cannot read predicted TIFF files, which is rare today. It has no effect on PackBits and None, and it makes little difference for black and white pages.

DPI, dots per inch, tells a printer or layout program how many pixels to place in each inch of paper. For JPG to TIFF 300 DPI is the most common request, because 300 is the resolution photo labs, magazines and most print shops work at. Choose 300 under DPI and that value is written into every TIFF.

Setting the DPI does not change the pixels. A photo of 3000 × 2400 pixels stays 3000 × 2400 pixels; at 300 DPI it prints 10 × 8 inches, at 150 DPI it would print 20 × 16 inches with less detail per inch. The DPI is a label that says how big the picture should come out, which is exactly what print programs read.

Keep, the default, uses the DPI already stored in each JPG, and 300 when a JPG has none. Phone photos often say 72 or have no value at all, which is why many people switch to 300 before sending files to print.

To work out the print size yourself, divide the pixels by the DPI. A photo 2400 pixels wide at 300 DPI prints 8 inches wide, which is about 20 centimetres, because one inch is 2.54 centimetres. The other way round, multiply the inches you want by 300 to find the pixels you need.

A request for JPG to TIFF 600 DPI usually comes from someone printing line art, technical drawings, signatures, stamps, small text or fine illustrations, where 300 DPI can show slightly rough edges. Choose 600 under DPI, or type any value from 1 to 4800 under Custom.

Remember that 600 DPI is only a real improvement when the picture has enough pixels. An A4 page at 600 DPI needs about 4961 × 7016 pixels. A typical 12 megapixel phone photo of 4000 × 3000 pixels marked as 600 DPI will simply print smaller, about 6.7 × 5 inches, rather than sharper. DPI alone does not add pixels.

If a publisher asks for 600 DPI line art, scan the drawing at 600 DPI in the first place, then convert the scan with Black & white for crisp, very small files.

TIFF files are bigger than JPG files, and that is the price of lossless storage. Still, there is a lot you can do. For JPG to TIFF small size results, choose ZIP or LZW compression and keep the predictor on: for most photos that alone gives files about half the size of an uncompressed TIFF.

Grayscale stores one value per pixel instead of three, so a grey TIFF is about a third of the colour one. Black & white stores just one bit per pixel and makes text pages and drawings tiny. Under More options you can also make the picture smaller with Resize, by setting the longest side in pixels or a percentage; a photo at half the width and height has a quarter of the pixels and a file about a quarter of the size.

What you should not expect is a TIFF as small as the JPG. If the file must be small and an exact copy is not required, a JPG is the better choice; Compress Image makes JPG files lighter still.

Four things decide how big a TIFF becomes. The first is the number of pixels: twice the width and twice the height means four times the data. The second is the colour mode: colour uses three bytes per pixel, grayscale one byte and black and white one eighth of a byte.

The third is the compression, with ZIP and LZW plus the predictor usually smallest for photos and PackBits often fine for black and white pages. The fourth is the picture itself: large calm areas such as sky, walls or white paper pack very well, while fine texture, film grain and the noise of photos taken in low light pack poorly.

The DPI value does not change the file size at all, because it is only a number in the header of the file. A photo saved at 72 DPI and at 600 DPI gives exactly the same size of file.

Colour writes a standard 24-bit RGB TIFF: 8 bits each for red, green and blue, exactly the colours of your JPG. Grayscale writes 8-bit grey, 256 shades from black to white, which suits black and white photos, scanned letters and anything where colour does not matter. Black & white writes 1-bit pixels that are either black or white, the smallest kind of TIFF there is.

The tool writes RGB, not CMYK. Most print shops accept RGB files today and convert them to their own CMYK settings, which usually gives better results than a conversion made without knowing their printer. If a printer insists on CMYK TIFF files, open the TIFF in a program such as Photoshop or Affinity Photo and convert it there with the colour profile they give you.

Choose JPG to TIFF black and white when a picture is really a document: a photographed letter, a form, a receipt, a page of text or a pen drawing. Every pixel becomes pure black or pure white, so the file is a small fraction of a colour one and text looks crisp and clean on a printer or a fax machine.

The threshold slider decides where grey turns into black. Move it to the left when faint text disappears, and to the right when the paper texture or shadows turn into black speckles. A photo of a page taken in even light gives the cleanest result; strong shadows across the page are hard to fix with one threshold.

Black & white is not meant for ordinary photos. A face or a landscape in 1-bit looks like a harsh stencil. For photos without colour use Grayscale instead.

Black & white also suits signatures and stamps that you want to place in documents later, logos drawn in one colour and pages of sheet music. For such pictures choose 300 or 600 DPI, so thin lines stay smooth when printed.

Fax machines, fax servers and many document scanning systems work with 1-bit black and white TIFF pages. A photo of a signed form taken with a phone can be turned into such a page: choose Black & white, 200 or 300 DPI and, for several pages, All in one multi-page TIFF.

Many fax services take any black and white TIFF. Some older fax servers insist on a special compression called CCITT Group 4 and a fixed page width; this tool writes LZW, ZIP, PackBits or uncompressed TIFF, not Group 4, so check what your service accepts. For scanned documents that are already PDF files, PDF to TIFF turns each page into a TIFF.

For document scanning and capture systems that read TIFF, Black & white at 300 DPI with LZW gives clear text and small files. When the pages contain photos, stamps in colour or pencil notes, Grayscale keeps them readable.

Many documents today are photographed with a phone instead of scanned. To turn such photos into clean TIFF pages, take each photo straight from above, in even daylight or under a ceiling light, with the page filling most of the picture and no shadow of your hand or phone across it.

Crop away the table around the page before converting if you can, because everything in the picture becomes part of the TIFF page. Then choose Black & white for text or Grayscale for pages with photos, stamps or pencil, and All in one multi-page TIFF so the pages stay together in order.

A real scanner still gives the most even pages. If you scan to JPG, scan at 300 DPI; with Keep selected under DPI, the value the scanner stored in each JPG is carried over into the TIFF.

One TIFF per picture is the default and suits most jobs: each photo becomes its own file, named like the original with .tiff at the end. When you convert more than one picture, Download all puts the files into one ZIP, which every computer and phone can open.

All in one multi-page TIFF puts every picture into a single file, one picture per page. Choose this for documents, records, fax and anything that should stay together. Keep in mind that a single file with hundreds of large photos can become very big; for photo collections, separate files are easier to handle.

To combine multiple JPG to one TIFF, choose All in one multi-page TIFF under Output. Every picture becomes one page of a single TIFF file, in the order shown in the list. The numbers next to the pictures show the page order; use the up and down arrows to move a picture, or Sort by name to put them in the order of their file names.

Sort by name works well with phone and scanner names such as IMG_0001, IMG_0002 or scan-01, scan-02. Pictures of different sizes can share one file, because each page of a TIFF keeps its own width and height.

With One TIFF per picture, each picture becomes its own .tiff file with the same name as the original, and several files are downloaded together in one ZIP.

When you make one multi-page TIFF, the list on the page shows a number on every picture, and that number is its page in the finished file. Pictures are listed in the order you added them. Use the up and down arrows to move a picture one place, or Sort by name to order the whole list by file name.

Sort by name understands numbers, so page-2 comes before page-10, which is not the case in every program. If your files have names without numbers, such as the date and time a phone gives them, sorting by name still puts them in the order they were taken.

For JPG to TIFF for printing, choose Colour, 300 DPI and LZW compression. That combination is what most print shops, photo labs and publishers expect, it opens in every print and layout program, and the DPI written in the file makes the picture come out at the intended size.

Check the pixel size before you send the files. The DPI table on this page shows how many pixels each print size needs at 300 DPI. A picture with fewer pixels will still print, but not as sharply, and a higher DPI setting cannot change that.

Ask the shop about colour. Most accept RGB and convert it themselves; a few want CMYK, which you would need to make in an image editor. Ask too whether they want a bleed, an extra margin around the picture that is trimmed off after printing, and crop or resize your picture to match before converting.

Finally, open one TIFF before sending the whole batch. Check that it looks right, that the pixel size and DPI are what you expect, and that nothing important sits too close to the edge, where the trimming after printing could cut it off.

Publishers, magazines and book printers often ask for images as TIFF so that no further compression happens between you and the printed page. Ask them three things before you convert: the resolution they need, whether RGB is accepted, and how they want the files named.

For photos 300 DPI is the usual answer and Colour with LZW is accepted almost everywhere. For line art, maps, diagrams and lettering, 600 DPI or more is common, ideally from a scan or an original made at that resolution. Send one file per picture, so each image can be placed and replaced on its own.

For family photos and collections that should last, a TIFF makes a sensible master copy. It is lossless, so it never degrades when edited, retouched or saved again, and it is so widely documented that it will remain readable for a very long time.

Choose Colour, Keep under DPI, LZW or ZIP with the predictor, and Original size so every pixel is kept. Give the files clear names before converting, because the TIFF files keep the names of the originals. Keep the original JPG files as well; they are the camera's own record and much smaller to share.

Store archive copies in more than one place, for example on an external drive and in a cloud backup. A lossless file only helps if it still exists in twenty years.

This JPG to TIFF online free tool runs in any up-to-date browser: Chrome, Edge, Firefox and Safari on Windows, Mac, Linux, Chromebook, iPhone, iPad and Android. Nothing has to be installed, and it works the same way on every device.

On a phone, tap the box and choose photos from your gallery. iPhone photos taken in HEIC are usually handed to the page as JPG when you pick them from the photo library. The finished TIFF or ZIP is saved to your downloads or the Files app.

Once the page has loaded, the conversion itself does not need the internet, because nothing is sent anywhere. Large batches are faster on a computer, which has more memory than most phones.

Add up to 300 pictures at once, each up to 100 MB. They are converted one after another with the same settings, and you can watch the progress and stop at any time. A batch of a hundred phone photos usually takes a minute or two on a computer.

You can mix formats in one batch: JPG, PNG, WebP, GIF, BMP and AVIF are all read and written as TIFF. For PNG pictures with transparency there is a page made for them, PNG to TIFF, with the same settings.

Everything happens on your device, so very large jobs depend on its memory. A computer handles hundreds of photos without trouble. On a phone, very large photos and long multi-page files can be slow; convert in smaller groups if the page becomes sluggish.

A multi-page TIFF is built in one piece, so a file with hundreds of full-size colour photos can become several gigabytes. For big collections, One TIFF per picture is easier to handle, to copy and to open.

Under More options, Resize changes the number of pixels while converting. Original size keeps every pixel. Longest side makes the bigger side of every picture a set number of pixels, for example 3000, which suits a mix of portrait and landscape photos. Percent scales every picture by the same amount, such as 50% for half the width and half the height.

Resizing is the most effective way to get smaller TIFF files when the full resolution is not needed, for example for a document system or a preview. For more resizing choices, such as exact sizes in centimetres or presets, use Resize Image first and convert the result.

JPG photos have no transparency, but PNG, WebP, GIF and AVIF pictures can. The TIFF files made here are not transparent, so transparent areas are filled with the background colour under More options. White is the default, which suits documents and printing; pick any other colour to match a page or a design.

Black & white and Grayscale use the same background, turned to grey or to black or white like the rest of the picture.

You can also save a JPG as TIFF with programs already on your computer. On Windows, open the photo in Paint, choose Save as, then Other formats and TIFF. On a Mac, open it in Preview, choose File, then Export, and pick TIFF as the format; Preview also offers a compression choice.

Those ways work well for a single picture. They become slow for dozens of photos, they rarely let you set the DPI that is written into the file, and they cannot put many pictures into one multi-page TIFF in an order you choose. This page does all of that for a whole batch at once, with the same settings for every picture.

Image editors such as Photoshop, GIMP and Affinity Photo save TIFF too, with many more options, including CMYK and colour profiles. Use them when a printer asks for something this page does not write, such as CMYK.

On Windows, the Photos app opens TIFF files with a double click, and Paint can open and save them too. Some versions of Photos show only the first page of a multi-page TIFF; other viewers and image editors show every page.

On a Mac, Preview opens TIFF files and shows each page of a multi-page TIFF in the sidebar, and you can press the space bar in Finder for a quick look. On an iPhone or iPad the Files app shows TIFF files, and on Android most gallery and file apps can open a single-page TIFF.

Photoshop, GIMP, Affinity Photo, Lightroom, InDesign, Word and most layout, scanning and document programs open these TIFF files directly. Web browsers mostly do not show TIFF, so to put a picture on a web page convert it back with TIFF to JPG or use JPG to PNG for a lossless web format.

On Linux, the usual image viewers and GIMP open TIFF files as well. If one program refuses a file, try another before converting again; the problem is usually the viewer rather than the file.

To check the DPI and size of a finished TIFF on Windows, right-click it, choose Properties and open Details: Dimensions shows the pixels, and Horizontal and Vertical resolution show the DPI. On a Mac, open it in Preview and choose Tools, then Show Inspector.

If a program shows 72 DPI although you chose 300, it is usually ignoring the value stored in the file; layout and print programs read it correctly. The pixel size is what really decides how much detail there is.

Start from the original photo with the most pixels, not a shared copy.

Know what the receiver asked for: DPI, colour mode, compression, one file or one multi-page file.

For prints, check the pixel size against the print size in the DPI table.

For documents, crop away the table and shadows, then pick Black & white or Grayscale.

For multi-page files, check the page numbers in the list before converting.

Open one finished TIFF to check it before sending a whole batch.

Your pictures are not uploaded. Reading the JPG, writing the TIFF and making the ZIP all happen in your browser, on your own device, with our own TIFF writer. No copy of your photos or documents reaches our servers or anyone else.

That makes the tool suitable for private photos, signed contracts, ID documents, medical letters and anything else you would rather keep to yourself. When you close the page, the pictures are gone from it.

Each picture is decoded by your browser into plain pixels, turned upright if the photo says it was taken sideways, and placed on a background of your chosen colour where it has transparent areas. If you chose Resize, it is scaled with high quality smoothing.

The pixels are then converted to the chosen colour mode, run through the predictor if it is on, packed with LZW, ZIP, PackBits or nothing, and written into a baseline TIFF with the DPI in its header. For a multi-page TIFF every picture becomes one page in the same file. The result is saved straight to your downloads.

Always convert from the original photo, never from a copy that was compressed again by a messaging app or social network.

Keep LZW and the predictor unless someone asks for something else: small, lossless and opened everywhere.

Choose 300 DPI for prints and check that the pixel size fits the print size.

Use Black & white for text pages and Grayscale for pages with photos or pencil.

Name your files in order, such as page-01, page-02, then use Sort by name for multi-page files.

Keep your JPG files too; they are much smaller for sharing.

Need a PDF instead? JPG to PDF puts photos straight into a PDF, and TIFF to PDF turns your TIFF files into one. To go back to a small file for sharing, TIFF to JPG makes JPG files again.

For PDF documents that must become TIFF, use PDF to TIFF. All our picture tools are listed under Image Tools.